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Yes, something I will look into Keith. Certainty too good to just chuck away.
Nice save on your cover.So the “invisible” rear indicator brackets arrived yesterday. Nice product and the pictures I think explain how they work.
Looks very neat now and less chance of damage to pretty fragile items that stick out a long way. Can be put back to standard in approx 2 mins.
[IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1775&stc=1[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1776&stc=1[/IMG][IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1777&stc=1[/IMG]Ok, back to the final drive story. I have had a look at my other RB now and that is fitted with a 17/40 sprocket set up. I like the way that bike drives so I have decided that I will return this beastie to standard gearing also despite the rear sprocket being in almost unused condition. The front sprocket though, now that I have managed to get it off does show signs of wear and will certainly need replacing. I will probably go for after market sprockets unless I come across some NOS items at a reasonable price. As mentioned already I have a standard chain ready to fit once the sprockets arrive. The current chain fitted has definitely seen better days. I think one of the earlier thread pictures of the rear of the bike show the amount of lateral movement that the chain can achieve, and closer inspection of it now that it is off the bike show that several of the o-rings have disintegrated and are missing. The picture here of the inside of the sprocket cover shows where some of them were living for who knows how long!!!
This doesn’t give me a warm feeling for the mechanical sympathy of previous owners though.[IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1778&stc=1[/IMG]
Andy
Your “invisible” brackets. I can see them.@AndyJ 3958 wrote:
So the “invisible” rear indicator brackets arrived yesterday. Nice product and the pictures I think explain how they work.
Looks very neat now and less chance of damage to pretty fragile items that stick out a long way. Can be put back to standard in approx 2 mins.
[IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1775&stc=1[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1776&stc=1[/IMG][IMG]http://www.cb1100r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1777&stc=1[/IMG]Hi Andy
Good idea with the invisible brackets,Are they available to buy if so where from?
Keith
Hi Keith, They are available from Tom at http://www.tomscyclerecycling.com
You’ll have come across him on the CB1100F.net site. Great to deal with.
So, on the RB there are a number of rubber bushes for the fairing. On this particular baby several of these are pretty rigid or disintegrating and could ideally do with replacing. 84703-460-000 are discontinued and CMS only have one at the moment. I vaguely recall someone having some of these manufactured several years ago but can’t remember who it was. I may be thinking of something else altogether though.
Question is, do any of you reading this know if reproductions or even NOS are available somewhere in UK / EEC. The same bushes are also used on the C and D modelsHi Andy
It might be me youre thinking about with the remanufactured rubber bushes,similar to the ones used on the battery box,one type had the groove halfway down the length the other was nearer one end
Ah yes, I think it was yourself Paul. How are you keeping man? I remember vaguely now. It was a while ago wasn’t it. You were looking to get some made for your superb restoration. Did we talk about these via email or was it face to face?
All my rubbers would be best replaced but the worst ones at the moment are the ones with the grove nearer to one end. Did you have any luck getting hold of replacements?
Good thanks Andy
Mad busy though
I have two big bag fulls of the rubbers in the attic somewhere
they just don’t have the serrations in the end faces like the stock items hence back in the day when I had them done there was no interest
If you want to see a sample I will email you a picCool. Didn’t know you had loads made. Not really concerned about totally original Paul. They sound like they will be a lot better than the almost solid items on mine. Do you have replacements for any other rubbers?
Please drop me a photo and price please.Right, back home again and on with the show. Went to have a look at the state of the air filter and surprisingly the filter fitted is pretty clean. However, what was holding the filter in place was a piece of rubber under the filter instead of the springy thing. So, your probably ahead of me here. I need a springy thing. The part number is 17223-425-000 but unsurprisingly is not readily available. Same spring for 750F, 900F, 1100F I would think. Anyone got a spare or know of a contact for one?
Rear brake master cylinder just given some attention. Piston operating / adjusting arm cleaned up. Circlip came out surprisingly easy considering the state the housing area was in. Good old WD40 and decent circlip pliers had it out in no time. Rubber boot had split so a new one was fitted and the unit is now back on the bike ready for fresh fluid. I didn’t remove the piston this time as it all seems to move smoothly and the bore looks clean. If I get problems on the shake down run then it will not now be an arduous task to split it all down again.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1783[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]1784[/ATTACH]
Back end done for now so onto the front.
Both front forks leaking badly so replacing the seals is my next job. At this point I will ask for some advice from any of you who have carried out this job themselves. I know the correct way is to split the fork lowers from the stanchions allowing easier removal / replacement of the old seal and checks to be made on bushes. Are the fork bushings likely to need replacing? I have read that worn bushings are a chief cause of seals failing. What is the easiest way to separate the fork lowers from stanchions without an impact wrench, as the last time I attempted this was on a CB400/4 and the internal bolt at the bottom of the fork leg just kept spinning.[ATTACH=CONFIG]1785[/ATTACH]
Andy, i normally loosen the allen screw in the bottom of the fork leg before i remove the springs, the springs normally stop the internal damper from spinning, if i have any trouble i normally just drill the head off the screw, you can then disassemble the fork and remove the remains of the bolt
For the price of the fork bushes i always replace them if i do not know the history of them, and always use genuine Honda fork seals
Keith
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