- This topic is empty.
-
Posts
-
Hello,
Just joined the Club and currently researching detail on the models
I have a few questions for the group, relating to a D model
1. Are the engine casings Gold anodised or painted ?
2. Are the stripes on all of the bodywork painted, or was a mixture of vinyl and paint used ?
3. Does the original fairing screen have any distinguishing features that confirm its original
4. Do the original exhausts have any numbers stamped anywhere
5. Is there a database that shows frame and engine numbers to confirm factory original. If not, what sort of number ranges are expected
6. Again, any date related markings on other parts that are visible without stripping the bike, wheels etc ?Look forward to learning more !
All the best Phil
PS. Current bikes I own include a CBX Z model, Laverda Jota, Kawasaki Z1 and a Yamaha TY250A (bought from the original owner !)
Hi Phil.. here goes..
1. Are the engine casings Gold anodised or painted ? They are painted.. but with a partiular technique to give that particular metallic finish. There’s an article on this on teh Club News section.. I realise some members are having trouble accessing that section at the moment… I’m working on the fix.
2. Are the stripes on all of the bodywork painted, or was a mixture of vinyl and paint used ? All painted… there are no vinyl stripes on the bike.
3. Does the original fairing screen have any distinguishing features that confirm its original .. yes …. but I can’t tell you the details of teh symbol to look for off the top of my head. Someone will clarify who can look at it and maybe take a pic.4. Do the original exhausts have any numbers stamped anywhere .. Yes.. they are made by SANKEI …model 2048 stamped on the Muffler. Also stamped HMMA3 there’s two variant .. one with a G suffix which is the German mufflers that restricted the power to 100 BHP
5. Is there a database that shows frame and engine numbers to confirm factory original. If not, what sort of number ranges are expected . No. Engine and Frame numbers very rarely match.. but are usually numerically close. Specific model numbers as follow:
model Frame No. Engine Number
RB SC05- 20xxxxx SC05E-20xxxxx
RC SC08-20xxxxx SC05E-21xxxxx
RD SC08-21xxxxx SC05E- 22xxxxx6. Again, any date related markings on other parts that are visible without stripping the bike, wheels etc ?
Not as to specific date but to the particular model . Carbs on the RD should be VB 53C … if it’s 53A they are RB model carbs… anything else and thats not right at all.
Frame and Engine number prefix as above (rumours of an SC08E engine number but no one has actually seen one)
Watch out for 900F or 1100F Engines in the frame.. I’ve seen a few of those.You’ll find interesting articles i the Club News archive .. I can only apologise for the bug that is preventing access at the moment.
SteveG
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1843[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1842[/ATTACH] Example of RD engine number SC05E-22xxxxx
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1845[/ATTACH] Example of RC frame number on the VIN plate (UK Models) SC08-20xxxxx and RD would
be 21xxxxx series Obviously the VIN plate should be the same number as stamped on
the head stock.[ATTACH=CONFIG]1844[/ATTACH] Example of correct CB1100R carb VB-53C for the RC and RD VB-53A for the earlier RB model
Phil.. I have also recently joined and live just down the road from you and I also have an RD model if you need to look at one.
Mine is a genuine 1 owner bike with just 10k on the clock and I also have the original exhausts with it.
Regards, Will@WillB 4116 wrote:
Phil.. I have also recently joined and live just down the road from you and I also have an RD model if you need to look at one.
Mine is a genuine 1 owner bike with just 10k on the clock and I also have the original exhausts with it.
Regards, WillWill, that would be great, I’ll PM you
Hi Phil and Will. I’m not too far from you guys also. Maybe meet for a ride out next year sometime.
I called over to see Will, and view his lovely RD.
Its motivated me to find one, so if anyone is selling, I’d like to buy a nice original example
This RD is for sale at the moment Phil. Top dollar though through a trader. Probably costs involved in getting it roadworthy as well if stood for as long as it has.
It is expensive, but if it’s what you want Phil then it has to be worth the asking price.
I honestly believe that their values will continue to rise, and you’ll not lose anything in the long run.
The thing is, you could spend the next 6 to 12 months searching for another example, and by then they’ll be £16k+.
If it’s what you want (and I know it is), and you have the funds available, then go for it.
Best of luck, WillI have been to see this bike
I didn’t have a great experience with the seller. I won’t go into specific details on the forum, but I travelled with a view to buy, and walked away from it
This bike is actually mentioned in the archives, where a few Years ago a fellow member spotted it, and noted that the seller wanted in excess of £10k for it.
I have a 1979 CBX1000, with similar mileage, so given the condition of my bike, then I expected the RD, being newer to be at least similar, especially being sold by a professional dealer
I observed that the RD had already had quite a bit of paintwork, which raises concern, given the mileage. It certainly needed redoing to bring it up to scratch. I think the value in these bikes is originality, and if a bike has been painted all over, it loses. I’m a big fan of originality and patina, and had it been completely original, then marks and blemishes and scars are acceptable, all part of the bikes character. But when its been done (badly) and needs to be re-done, there are both originality and cost and future value implications to be considered
Notably, the tank had been repainted poorly. The striping was uneven Left to Right, and the upper factory decal was missing. The paint shades did not match the fairing and it was also starting to bubble again. I also observed filler/flatting marks in it that made me worry what was underneath the paint.
Front Mudguard had also been repainted, and blistered on the top rear, so needed doing again
The seat tail fairing section, had also been painted (rubbing down water marks on the underside, and poor masking bleed where the single seat cowl mounts. It was also crooked to the rear light assembly
The fairings appeared original, but the belly pan on the underside was fractured (paint also cracked), and it had lost its strength, as it was very pliable. The Screen had been refitted and the mounting screws overtightened, and its cracked on at least 2-3 of the mountings.
The original exhausts present, with a split appearing on the right bank, that was possibly much worse inside
Some bad scratches present on the wheels (front and rear), which is a shame given the anodised finish could not be touched in
I also had in my mind that given the period of non-use, there could also be future repair bills due with unseen items at this timeThe above said, I was prepared to buy it, albeit I expected some money off the asking price. When the items raised were discussed, the very arrogant seller launched into a tirade that I was basically wasting his time, and he’d rather keep it in his shed than knock any money off.
mmmmm, travelling from Chester to Durham with money to spend is not the action of a time waster. I was only asking for a conversation to reduce by a few hundred pounds, not thousands. I think fair considering the points raised. Maybe the seller will find his buyer ?……
I guess fate decided that was not the bike for me, all the bikes that I have bought have been a nice experience from enthusiastic sellers, and I’m very happy with my stable – I hope the right bike is out there for me to join in the Club events
Sorry to hear that your experience was negative Phil. Photo’s and telephone words never paint the full picture. You certainly have to see things in the flesh. If your search has only just started then I would hold on for a few more months. If you are looking to pay circa to what is being asked for that particular bike then someone may be willing to let a nice example go.
Is it an RD in particular that you are searching for?Sorry to hear that experience Will. You were obviously a genuine buyer and I completely agree with you walking away with that attitude. I have done the same. Part of a good transaction is not only the item, but its the sellers attitude towards you. I just couldn’t allow myself to hand over hard earned cash, no matter how good the deal.
Cheers
JohnS
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.